Sunday, August 12, 2012

First Point Perfection

Friday August 3rd. 
The summer doldrums here in San Diego are in full swing. The simple fact is..If you want waves you gotta venture south to baja dangerland or to counties north here in California. A steep south swell was hitting so my friend Mike and I went up to Malibu for the day. What a trip it was.

How do you get to the 'Bu? Through traffic..through traffic


The promise land

 Latigo Point..


Secos had some fun sets but it was too inconsistent and the tide was too high






Zuma

Enjoying summer..



 Malibu was pretty solid all day. Inconsistent but waist to chest high+ with some bigger stuff up at 2nd point. Surfed all afternoon..took a lunch break and then surfed from 4 til dark. Lots of long waves with it finally breaking properly up past the Adamson house and reeling down into the cove.






There was a gnarly wreck on PCH. We had just gotten out of the water and went down towards the pier to talk with some friends. We heard screeching and smoke. A northbound car going way to fast lost control, fishtailed on the center median, and then proceeded to do a 180(ironic because 180degrees is the perfect swell direction for malibu) across the 101 and BOOM!! Slammed into the suv parked in front of  my friend Mike's truck. The impact forced the suv over the cub and onto the sidewalk completely totaling the suv. Mike's truck was boxed-in amongst the wreckage but escaped with only a dented license plate. The back of the car which caused the wreck actually hit his truck, but because Mike parked with his front tire turned outward it simply hit his tire and saved the truck from destruction.  

Scored Awesome Surf and was Overall an Epic trip.

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