June 22, 2012
Summer has arrived
After surfing Trestles all day on Thursday, I went up to Costa Mesa/Irvine to crash at the hotel my mom was staying at for her work training. Longboard wouldn't fit in the elevator so I had to check it at the front desk haha. Shortboard was no problem though. Being surfed out is the best kind of tired. Crispy sunburned windburned salty sandy every muscle sore..
Friday morning left the hotel and headed out for round two. Hopped on the 405 north on-ramp just as a moving truck was having a tire blowout on the freeway. What an explosion! Debris and tire everywhere. Anyways got to Malibu about 11am. Perfect hot sunny day. Waves were pretty small but Fun. Water was a frigid 61 degrees. Got a few gems to remind what the wave can be.. but it never really turned on..just not enough swell. Came in around 130pm ish cause my legs were too frozen and sunburned. Secos would require a fullsuit.
(On a sidenote: They have begun to dredge the lagoon..the current rivermouth outlet is just north of the Adamson house..it's really stinky at first point now. If you want to know all about the project..this article I've linked is a good start)
After Malibu headed north just like usual in hopes of better surf up at Secos aka Leo Carrillo aka Arroyo Sequit. The drive from Malibu north past Point Dume is probably one of my favorites in California. Nothing but right points..a lot like Morocco.
Secos straight DELIVERED! SO EPIC! Waist to Chest high with Overhead sets!! Not too many guys out either. SO MANY WAVES. Noserides for days. Best waves I've had in a long long time. Juicers from the rock all the way past the stairs. Surfed for 4 straight hours until I was literally too physically exhausted to paddle back out. Just walking back up the beach/stairs to the car was a struggle...Such an awesome feeling being surfed out. Mental bliss
Secos is my favorite summer surf spot. Besides the wave being soooo good, just the entire setup there is special. It's really got that out in the country feel. Nothing around really but the coast and the wild Malibu hills. The water is always so clean, crisp, healthy, and alive with all the kelp and diversity. Really nice colors.
After re-hydrating for a bit, Went back down to the 'bu in hopes that maybe it would be good for the evening session since Secos seemed to be getting bigger. Bad decision..malibu was still Really small. Went out anyways for a few hours until dark. Fun ones at 1st point.
9pm time to start the looong drive back home..
Moonlight Over Malibu
One of the longest days of the year..9 o'clock and still not dark
Lots of bats flying about
Ying/yang
I live for summer days in Malibu
SO MUCH FUN
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