Hurricane Fabio swell rolled into town Wednesday July 18th and I rolled north to Malibu.
Traffic was surprisingly bad the entire way. Took a solid 3hrs. Weather started out really clear but cloudy. From the beach at Surfrider you could see across all the way down to the South Bay/Palos Verdes and Catalina Island. Malibu ended up being much smaller than I was hoping for but it was still pretty fun.
Love those rights...
This grom was just killing it on the inside section. Pretty inspiring to see the next generation surfing the right way..
Cool hurricane clouds
Oh to be a fly on that wall over the decades..
Mushburger..
Nice lines rolling in.
First Point
Typical chaos..
Secos was the savior of this trip. The swell angle was such that it was really hitting north of Point Dume. Secos ended up being waist to shoulder high and going overhead+ on the sets. Longboarded my brains out for 3 hours straight with a very light crowd. Could pretty much take your pick of waves. Got one of the longest noserides I've ever had. Lots of bomber sets outside the rock. Wind came up a bit and with the bigger surf I went in and swapped boards for my 6'8" e-wing Bonzer 5fin egg.
First time riding that board there. Stayed out for another 3+ hrs. It was butter. Got real crowded with all the after work people so I started surfing the inside south peak by the stairs. Weather was awesome the whole time. Just constantly changing with all the frontal bands from Hurricane Fabio rolling through. It would go from windy heavy thunderstorms for an hour to bright calm sunshine the next. The sunset ended up being the most amazing I have seen since Morocco. It set over the hills behind secos yet it was completely reflected straight back on the the clouds out over the ocean and south along the coastline down towards Malibu. Sitting out in the water you could turn and look back at the beach and the water would just be entirely fire red orange. I almost went in to get the camera but the surf was just too good.
Country hills inland
Life imitates art/art imitates life
SOOOOO MUCH FUUUUNN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!YEAH!!
