An ode to quintessential California summer surfing
Summer +Malibu = Epic. It's just that simple.
Summer days at Malibu are something that I always look forward to and cherish. Nothing but great times, great waves, great friends, great stories. Stuff that defines growing up. Took so many road trips during those days. Stayed just about everywhere. What special times those were.
Never made it up to the bu last summer unfortunately..so this year gonna bring it back just like old times.
Writing Excerpt from September 2006 via my old blog:
"darkness grows and the los angeles lights illuminate the far south coastline. waves loom and break untouched. the east breeze nudging slowly out to sea. nobody around. the time is right and off you go into the dark warping wall of water, legs crouched arms straight ahead gliding along climbing and dropping with not a thing on the mind. sections connect and then break behind you as you whiz right along. suddenly the friend who was waiting for you way down the point is now long gone in your wake. step off in soft sand and up the shore now its you waiting for the friend. laughter adds depth to the breaking surf and cars zooming by a world away up on pacific coast highway."
So here's to Malibu and longboarding and perfect pointbreaks and summer and great times with great people.
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