Monday, October 27, 2014

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

More Rincon

 Morning lines





Standard set wrapping in.

Overhead Grinder reeling into the cove!!! Caught so many waves just like this one!! It was INSANE!!





Another set



 Inbetween waves








Friday, October 17, 2014

Queen of the Coast


Yea Rincon was pretty much as good as it gets on Monday.
8+ hours of water time.
Some of the best surf I've ever gotten in California

Under The Misty Mountains

Ready for winter again..


Thursday, October 16, 2014

Leo Carrillo

 Got to close out summer south swell season by staying at one of my favorite campgrounds. Leo Carrillo state beach/campground in far North Los Angeles.
Also known as Secos or Arroyo Sequit. 
One of my all time favorite waves ever since I first scored it when I was like 18. 
Just one of my favorite places on earth in general. Still has that old time California feel.









Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Birthday Surf

Swamis was good. Here's cardiff on the way home..

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Sunday Morning La Jolla Shores Dive






 Sand dollar flats




Into the thermocline..

Big crab at the first canyon wall..




 Wall..

















 Baby halibut

 Lobster in a hole













 Octopus